Since their introduction in 1973, Timberland's 6" Work Boots, also known as "Timbs," have undergone significant development. The six-inch high waterproof nubuck shoe, which can be seen on the feet (and in the songs) of everyone from Notorious B.I.G. to Kanye West, was initially created as a durable boot for New England construction workers. It has since come to represent hip-hop fashion.
The brand never intended for its boots to be worn by rappers, and it initially tried to distance itself from its new audience because it felt the association was too distant from its blue-collar roots. This is why the brand's popularity in hip-hop circles is a strange one.
Converse, Dr. Martens, and Vans are just a few examples of brands that gained popularity in markets they were unaware even existed. Today, however, it is difficult to imagine these brands without their subcultural associations.
Timberland noticed a peculiar thing happening in New York City in the early 1990s while serving its core clientele of blue-collar workers, who adored the brand's boots for their superior waterproofing and tough as nails construction. Miles from Timberland's rural heartland and unaware of the company's reputation as a blue-collar brand, the hustlers, rappers, and outlaws of the Big Apple had developed an obsession with their boots.
The first "urban" buyers of Timberland boots, according to consumer journalist Rob Walker's book Buying In, were rumoured to be New York drug dealers who had to stand on the street all night and required the best footwear to keep them warm and dry.
Rappers in the city quickly followed suit, always looking to prove their hustler credentials, and soon the boot could be found everywhere—on Tupac's feet, in Biggie's lyrics, on Wu-feet, Tang's and in Mobb Deep's artwork. Rap publication Vibe reported that "everyone from thugs to step teams were stalking, walking in their six-inch construction boot," as they "stood up beautifully to urban elements like concrete, barbed wire, and broken glass."
Along with their footwear, rappers of that era helped lay the groundwork for our current obsession with workwear by pairing Timbs with brands like Carhartt and The North Face in a typically baggy 90s style.